The handbrake assemblies can be removed as follows. Using a large screwdriver, move the handbrake lever to the center of the car so as to disconnect the cable. Bend back the lock plates if there using a thin screwdriver through the gap between the caliper and the brake pipe. Then using a 1/4" drive air ratchet (or regular man powered) with a 7/16" socket, remove the two bolts on each side holding in the handbrakes. It is sometimes necessary to use the screwdriver to help lift out the bolts while turning. Once the bolts are out, remove the brass return spring units and wiggle the handbrake assemblies out of the top of the calipers and slide over the top of the rotor to the rear of the car. They can be removed through the rear opening. Dissasemble, lube the ratchet wheel, and through bolt, change pads and time to put back. I have found that making the ends of the brass return springs round where they enter the calipers helps get them back in. Also, bend them back so they will go in the holes and the bolt holes will line up. One of the legs should be lower than the other. Also, taper the end of the bolts slightly as this will help guide them back in. Once in with return spring in place, apply them repeatably until they are adjusted and stop clicking. Put the cable in and adjust so that the slack is just out of the cable, no more. A lot of shops tighten the cable to make the handbrakes work when they have seized up. This is only a temporary repair as they should be self adjusting. The XJS cable is adjusted on the sill right behind the side of the drivers seat. The XJ6 is adjusted under the car, same setting. I the handbrakes work fine and you are changing out the main calipers, the handbrakes can be slid up on top of the rotors and then slid back into place when the new calipers are in place. This is the same procedure whether the rear suspension is in the car or on the ground.
There seems to be a lot of differing opinions on replacing rear calipers. As a line mechanic of 30 years, we only charged 1 hour per caliper. It usually did not take an hour. Just remove the handbrake cable, unscrew the two handbrake bolts (you will have to pry back the lockplates) and push the handbrakes up on top of the rotor. Unscrew the brake line, bend it slightly out of the way and plug it with a rubber plug. Using a long 5/8 wrench open end from the bottom, loosen the lower bolt. Using the box end, loosen the top. From here a set of short wrenches come in handy to loosen the bolts. If you are lucky the top one is loose enough to turn with your fingers. Once unscrewed, they will not come out of the caliper but the whole caliper is lifted out. Replacement is reverse except a long screwdriver to hold the bolts in place until started helps. Make sure the handbrake screws are through the handbrake. Removing them and putting a small taper on them helps. If the rotors need changing, do this while the calipers are out. Remove one shock to gain access to the 4 axle bolts. Remove the lower trunion grease fitting and the trailing arm front mount. Lower the arm down, axle,trailing arm and hub as a unit. Then the disc can be taken out. Pay attention to the shims and put them back where they were unless you need to adjust camber. The holes mentioned on the rotors are for access to the caliper bolts on the "Dana" diffs which were put in the XJS for part of the 1985 model year. They [are] redundant on the Salisbury diffs. Note that the bottom plate does not have to be removed. It will be dented slightly when the lower arm is swung down but can easily be tapped back into place. I have found on working on cars that if you remove a bolt, you will need to put it back so I try to keep it to a mininum.
Posted by Andy Blakey (ablakey at chubb dot com)The only thing I disagree with is that it really is easier if you do remove the bottom plate. I understand Dick's reasoning though. He's a pro working to cost and schedule.